Wednesday, May 24, 2006

The Petra Hostel

The picture above, of the Dome of the Rock, was taken from the roof of our hostel, which is considered to have the best views of Jerusalem that can be found -- so well known that management charges 5 NIS to access the roof for a look around (guests go to the roof free).

The Petra Hostel has hosted, it is said, Herman Melville, Theodore Roosevelt and Mark Twain. Lily made the point that few repairs had been made since. Shabby, maybe, but a lovable shabby ... in other words the Petra Hostel had character ... marbe tile floors that were cracked and loose, shower that leaked into the room, creaky stairs, friendly staff and quirky residents from the expatriate Brit to the Messianic Jew, to the russian pilgrims camped out on the roof.

On the main level there was internet connection (10 NIS for an hour), a cooler with diet coke or other sodas or beer, Gabriel at the front desk ready to offer some wisdom or wonderment as to how badly I was ripped off by the street traders, and a TV lounge with comfy sofas that the Salvation Army would reject.

And just out the front door (down a flight of stairs) were money changers and merchants with persian carpets and olivewood carvings to sell. Lily, in the course of the week, was offered at least a dozen marriage propositions, and I was offered 900 camels (by the end of the week, bidding started at around 300) for my OK. Lily's tolerance level declined quickly.

But overall the views from the roof and balcony forced us to be absorbed into the spirit and energy of Jerusalem.
The view from our balcony at night: the Citadel to the right, and Armenian Patriarchate Road winding along the ramparts, into the heart of the Armenian Quarter and the Zion Gate.

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