Our Trip to ISRAEL and JERUSALEM: Juneau to Tel Aviv, Days 1, 2 and 3

For many years I have wanted to travel to Israel ... and I have always enjoyed taking my girls on road trips. In January I made the decision to go, purchaed a pair of round trip tickets, and we were on our way May 10, 2006 ... Alaska Airlines to Seattle, Lily to the mall, British Air to London, Lily to H&M, British Air to Tel Aviv.

I'd arranged a rental car through Budget and we picked up a Hyundai Getz (a small car) at Ben Gurion airport. As we followed the signs out of the airport and headed toward Tel Aviv, Lily made the comment that she'd never been anyplace where palm trees grew. I noticed a pleasant but distinct odor in the air ... the sea perhaps or the fact that it was atmosphere a half a world away from what my senses were acclimated to. It was 6 am and we headed for the Dan Panorama. Traffic was light as it was the shabbat, or sabbath. We were in awe of our new and very exotic location.

Passport control was very efficient and our passports were stamped in without a problem. You are given the option of not having your passport stamped; this is because most islamic countries deny entry to any traveler with an Israeli stamp in their passport. Our first blessing: Lily's passport was set to expire a few days after our return to Alaska. I'd never checked. If it had expired it would have been a major problem. In any case, her and my passports were stamped.

We got our rooms right away despite the early hour, and we both slept. I awoke a few hours later and decided not to wake Lily, but instead to go out and find an ATM. As it was the sabbath, no banks, offices or stores were open. I found a cash machine pretty quickly, but it only took cards from Israeli banks. Finally, after getting directions from the front desk guy I found an ATM at a Bank Leumi, after about a 15 minute walk.

A few things I noticed: electric poles were steel, not wood, and usually supported a mass of tangled wires. The part of Tel Aviv I walked through seemed a little shabby, but not in any sort of threatening way. It was bright and sunny and the Mediterranean Sea was bright and blue to the West, separated from the roadway by a wide, grassy park strip.

I returned to the hotel and roused Lily, who protested greatly, but accepted the wisdom of walking around some in order to allow for a standard night of sleep. Once outside the hotel, we followed the sea toward Jaffa, or Yafo, the old part of Tel Aviv.

We soon came across a pair of pleasant looking seaside restaurants with outdoor patios, so we selected one and walked up to find a seat. That was our first glimpse of Israeli security, a guard with a wand and a serious-looking pistol holstered at his side. He gave us only the most cursory once-over with the wand and we took our seats.

The lunch was great, and we were introduced to the Israeli custom of serving a selection of small salads, or condiments, with a main course. It was also our first taste of real hummus -- not the slightly grainy material you get in Alaska, which you serve as a dip -- but the rich and creamy version, served swirled on a plate with olive oil and spices. It was also our first experience with the wild cats which roam and scavenge at will in the middle east.